This is version 5_2B. I've printed it and like it so far. Quick tips: 1. Haven't clamped the bearings and it's working well so far. 2. For the bed and Bottom frame, I only used the screws in the outter edges. I didn't use the ones in the dovetails but they could help in bringing the pieces together. 3. I used one bolt for each rod end in the top. 4. I used 2 LM8UU bearings for the Y gantry as an alternative to the longer LM8LUU either should work well 5. I haven't tested the motor wedges but will try them out if I have belt tension issues. 6. I printed the Carriage and motor wedges in PETG since they could get hot. ABS/ASA would be even better.
Changes from Original Rook:
- Linear rod only (x, y , and z)
- 150mm x 150mm build plate
- Reprap- it could replicate it's own printed parts
- Motors have wedges to help tension
- V6 hotend with 40mm x 40mm heatsink fan
- Bottom z limit switch has mount built into base
- All rods are held in plase with bolts that clamp down on them
- Feet are part of the base
Wanted to get my idea into CAD and add to this great community.
Integrated linear rods into motion system to replace linear rails.
Increased build area to 150mm
V2 combines the front of the upper frame with the idlers and the rear of the upper frame with the motor mounts.
V4 is cut into pieces so that it can be printed on itself
Welcome to the DIY 3D Printer called Rook!
This is a tiny mostly 3d printed CoreXY printer with a build volume of 120x120
PLEASE NOTE THIS PRINTER IS A WORK IN PROGRESS!
The goal of this printer is to make a cheap easy to build 3D printer than can be built by anyone.
Features:
- 3D Printed Frame
- CoreXY
- Dual Lead Screws
- Only Roughly $260 USD in cost
BOM
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1oHDEvndkkvPFOBis4atrHRHK_DMTvttFUFWDg2He6To/edit#gid=0
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