Replies: 20 comments 101 replies
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Oh and here is a photo of the wiring diagram, on the inside of the enclosure: |
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Because it is so hard to measure in-situ, I took a plasticine mould of the S21 connector on my main control PCB. The pin spacing on the S21 connector is 2.0mm and it looks like it is a locking connector. So I have ordered the following from RS: I am going to use a standard 5-pin Dupont header socket on the Faiken-end for now. Then I just need to practice my crimping skills... |
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Here is a photo of the circuit boards in my FTXM20R2V1B indoor unit: |
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I Have the same internal. You can use this connector on the unpolpulated S21 https://www.daikin.nl/nl_nl/products/product.html/EKRS21.html And that with dupont cables connecting to the faikin module |
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I am very pleased to report that I have successfully managed to crimp a cable and get the Faikin module working with my FTXM-R. I had a buy a new crimp tool to crimp the connector but can highly recommend the Engineer PA-09 tool - more basic but higher quality and so much easier to use than the ratchet tool I had. However the the Dupont header only just fits on to the Faikin module - I think because the pitch is 2.54mm vs 2.5mm. I had to push the connector on quite hard to get the LED to light up and it wasn't a very reliable connection. So I definitely want to source a proper JST EHR-5 housing. I was quite nervous about connecting the Faikin module the wrong way round. I measured the voltages on the header first: Pin 1 (GND) → Pin 2: 14.2 volts |
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Thanks for updating wiki list |
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Finally got Faikin module installed properly today 🎉 I had some trouble sourcing a JST EHR-5 housing and pins. So in the end I went for some fake/clone headers from eBay: EH 2.5mm Plug + Crimps After double-checking the connection was the right way round, I installed the Faikin module just next to the official module - just below the shielding that encloses the main PCBs: The insulation on the hookup wire I am using is a little bit too thick for the crimps. Will try and get some thiner wire, if I make another one for our other air conditioning unit. Next step: configuring Homebridge |
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First of all, thank you very much for your research and experiments! I see connecting to the S21 port requires making a custom cable, leading to the following question: can we eventually use the S801 port? What do we know about it? |
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Hi, I have come across this issue when preparing the installation of a Perfera FTXM-R AC. It has been installed now and the Faikin modules as well as the HA integration worked wonderfully. One thing though -when I select "auto fan mode" it jumps back to "night" mode - is this a bug or a feature? If the former, shall I open a separate issue? |
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I have 5x FTXM units - @njh installation is clearly brilliant but I'm not sure I'm up for gaining the cable-making skills. I'd prefer to just buy 5x EKRS21 pre-made cables, but they are clearly much shorter - has anyone tried this? Comment above about being inside the shielding is noted. |
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Hi, Thanks to njh I traced the correct connectors. The S21 in my Daikin indoor unit is a JST PA female connector pitch 2mm. I was able to order them at RS (you need a business account to be able to order, I was luck that I could order via my employer). One of my hobbies is electronics so I ordered some wires (22AWG, 28 or 26 AWG would be sufficient though) at Aliexpress. In the past for the same reason I ordered a crimp tool for JST terminals. In total all included I spend about 100 euro's to install the Faikins in my aircos. Below the images of the installed Faikin. The build in WiFi device I do not use, it is switched off. I hope other people can benefit from my adventure. |
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Question for revk: |
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I have been trying to see if I can work out any more of the S21 protocol. Not had much success but I thought I would publish what my FTXM20R2V1B (FTXM-R) responds with to various commands. It may be useful for comparing to other models.
I got hold of these by turning on debug and dump in the Advanced settings and then subscribing to the messages using MQTT:
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@njh Would you kindly fix the broken images in this post? I'm about to embark on the same project. thanks |
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I've started a separate thread with instructions for the floor standing Perferas: #291 |
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For the cable, I bought ready crimped wires from RS Components for the two connectors, and soldered them together with some heat-shrink tubing over the joint. The parts are (quantity for five units):
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Thank you so much! Your advise did the trick. Now the option is also available in Home assistant. |
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does anyone know if i can also run the faikin from the 5 volt on pin1? ad not use the 12 volt pin4? |
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Remove the screws and hinge the cover up, its clipped on with some not very
strong clips.
The case is flexible, dont force it and you wont break it. Just jiggle it
…On Sat, 14 Dec 2024, 12:15 Klaus Jandl, ***@***.***> wrote:
There is also a video, see my comment somwhere here, or here: BTW, there
is a good video showing how to open the Perfera here
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6T-MmexRao> (start at 0:55)
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Hi,
Thank you very much for creating this project @revk!
I am in a very similar situation - I bought 2x air conditioning units last year and chose Daikin because after a brief search, it looked like they had the best chance of controlling them from the local network. I was pretty disappointed to discover that they weren't like old Daikin units and talked directly to a Cloud based service.
Indoor Unit: FTXM20R2V1B (FTXM-R)
Outdoor Unit: 2MXM40A
Wifi Controller: BRP069C4x (not worked out what value X I actually have - it isn't on the PCB)
The Wifi Controller is an uncased PCB measuring 45x35mm that clips inside the main air conditioning housing.
It is connected via a 5-wire cable and connects to S801 on the main controller PCB.
There is also an unpopulated S21 header on the board.
Does anyone know what sort of connector the S21 header uses?
Or where to source a suitable cable from?
While it is the same number of pins, I don't think I can re-use the cable connected to S801 because it looks like a smaller connector.
nick.
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