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volume-15_1907-1908.xml
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volume-15_1907-1908.xml
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Bedreschein - Dec. 2d. 1907. This little record of travel should have begun a month ago - as we sailed from New York just a month ago - the 2d of Nov. on the Freiderick der Grosse. We had a rough unpleasant passage - there was no day on which I could have written with comfort. It was the worst passage I ever made. On some days, the best thing was to stay in bed - and that was a difficult thing to do. A friend of ours was thrown from his berth, and dislocated his shoulder - several accidents occured - sprains etc. Reached Naples finally the morning of the 15th. Dr. Baldwin of Rome, and Mrs. Beck of Milwaukie, were on the boat, and added much to the pleasure of the voyage - coming when possible to my sitting room for tea. We knew that Nettie and Carrie would be waiting for us at Naples, and we hoped to have at least a night and day with Nettie at the Grand Hotel. But we were so belated that we had only time to drive to the hotel and get them, and drive back to the dock - and that was so disappointing. David Costantini was there also - and Mrs. Baldwin who had come from Rome to meet her husband - the voyage across the Mediterranean was as charming as the other was horrid. We arrived at Alexandria at 8 o’clock on Monday the 18th, stopped at the New Khedivial Hotel long enough to have a lunch put up for us, then paid a visit to the Museum (our first) though it is hardly worth a visit, and were off for Cairo at noon - and found our old rooms ready for us, and were eating dinner on the evening of the 16th. A sister with them - a quiet, beautiful day from N.Y. A very good record. We got away from Cairo today - having settled ourselves on the Beduin the 1st. We tried to get through the bridge yesterday - but there was such a crowd of gyassas at the draw, that we waited for most of them, dreading the dangers of that shouting, reckless, unmanageable crowd - but the Bridge time was up before they had all passed, and the draw was shut in our faces. We tied up at the Kasr el Nil barracks, and waited for today. We were so near when the draw was opened at 1 o’clock that we started as soon as the down boats had got through - but there was a good wind, and the reckless gyassas in spite of orders and shreiks of the bridge officers crowded upon us in full sail - and it was a very nasty twenty mimrtes we had - such noise, such frantic efforts. One of them crashed her bow into us, fortunately broke her bow sprit, and left her anchor embedded in the landing stage, or she would have ripper our side open. She did break one of the window frames, but luckily spared the glass, knocked much of our nice new paint off us etc. One of our men took out the window frame, and we left him in Cairo, to take it to the carpenters and painters. He rejoined us at Tourah by rail and says the carpenters and painters will reach Bedreshein tomorrow at 8 o’clock. As Theo and Carrie are to make a visit to Sakkarah we will not be detained. We saw Capt. Trefusis and his sweet sister Evelyn who is out with him this winter. They lunched with us several times, and she came in to stay one night (they are staying at Helouan) and go with Carrie early the next morning to see the ceremony of the Kishwa. He is now in a large business at Cairo. We also made the acquaintance of Lord [illegible]’s eldest son, Viscount Fielding. He is in the Coldstream Guards, who have lately been sent out here. He is a nice young fellow simple and natural. Mrs. Peck of Milwaukie was at Shepheards most of the time we were there, and we saw much of her. Cairo, and the whole of Egypt is now in serious financial straits, following the absurd speculative craze of the last 2 years. Prices are incredibly high. Tuesday, Dec. 3rd. I have had a busy day settling - while Theo and Carrie went to Sakkarah. A lovely day. The Ramesis was lying by us all day - with a handful of passengers - but went off at 6 o’clock. The carpenter and painter have been here all day repairing damages. Wednesday, Dec. 4. 41 miles. We get away from Bedraschein at 7 o’clock this morning - and have had a lovely day - river like glass, both of our sails out much of the time. The river is enormously broad about here. When I went on deck about 4 o’clock, I found a scene of ravishing beauty - the broad smooth river, the distant cliffs and Mts. and desert, with the heliotrope shadows, and the soft brilliant sun. It was too entrancing. We had tea on deck - and are now lying opposite Wasta. Thursday, Dec. 5th. 29 miles. A quiet uneventful day - though the tug went on the sand once for a few minutes. It is a slow heavy tug, but was the only one cook had reoccupied. We are about a mile above Ribbeh. Friday, Dec. 6th. 25 miles. Our tug, Anubis by name, went on the sand soon after nine this morning, and got off at 10:25. The river is so very broad here, that it is difficult to find the channel. The gyassas seemed to be having as much trouble as we had. Such a wonderful sunset - the sky, crimson pink with one long narrow cloud near the horizon, above which shone Venus, quite resplendent, and the new moon, the veriest silver thread of a little crescent, just below the cloud. Saturday, Dec. 7. 44 miles. Made an early start - and tied up at 5:30 within 3 miles of Minia. Lovely day, and perfect evening. Second Sunday in Advent. Dec. 8th. 28-1/2 miles. A very heavy fog on the river this morning delayed our starting until 9:25 - spent about 2 hours at Minia waiting for mail and express parcels - a good sailing day - tied up at Redah about 6 o’clock. Monday. Dec. 9th. 41-1/2 miles. Started at 6 o’clock - a cloudy day - and cold wind. Passed Mellawi, Hadji Kandel, and the Gebel Abu Feda and pulled up opposite Menfalout at 6 o’clock. We missed our channel this afternoon and had to go back to find it. It was a wonderful sight passing the Gebel. In all the years I have been on the Nile, I have not see such a transcendently beautiful sunset - and the colour reflected from the rocks made a great effect. Tuesday, Dec. 10. Asyut. 8 miles. Arrived at 1 o’clock having had the tug one hour on the sand. Theo dismissed the tug at 2 o’clock and we sailed at 3:30 - quite a good wind until 6 p.m. at which hour we tied up for the night, 8 miles above Asyut. It seemed very good to get rid of the tug. They are only tolerable to make speed, and this one couldn’t do it. Last year the Thothmes took us in 10 days to Luxor. This year the Anubis took 9 days to go to Asyût. Wednesday, Dec. 11th. 19 miles. We had no wind until noon - but a very good one until 5:40 when we tied up and with the towing we did before noon we made our 19 miles - lovely and warm. Thursday, Dec. 12. Sohag. 41-1/2 miles. Started at 7 - the wind freshened finely at 8 o’clock and we came splendidly on until within a mile of the Sohag about 7 o’clock we struck the sand sharply - and were there 3/4 of an hour. Earlier in the afternoon we came near having a serious experience, - just as we approached the landing stage at Tahta which was crowded with gyassas and people, the wind shifted, and at that moment a gyassas, crowded with people, pushed out before our prow. We could give her no room - in spite of the yells and cries of our men she came on - and disaster seemed certain for if we had struck her we would have capsized here and gone over her. It is impossible to say why this kind of thing occurs so often - it is one of the greatest dangers on the Nile. A delightful day. Friday, Dec. 13. 28-1/2 miles. We waited at Sohgg this morning until 9:30 for mail and provisions. Stopped within 4 miles of Balliana at 6 P.M. A good wind, a heavenly day. The nights too, with the young moon and the resplendent Venus, are wonderful. Saturday, Dec. 14. 8-1/2 miles. A perfectly calm morning - but tracking and polling we made Balliana at 4:30 - no mail, so we were off at once, and with a light wind went on until 6 P.M.Sunday - Third in Advent. Dec. 15. 6 miles. A perfectly windless day - bright and hot. Our men have worked like Trojans every minute of the day - polling and tracking, we think we have made 6 miles. Monday, Dec. 16. A repetition of yesterday - clear, hot, windless day. The men have been polling, tracking, pulling to anchor in the burning sun all day. Theo thinks we have made about 12 miles. We are now at Nagh Hamadi, waiting to pass the bridge tomorrow. Tuesday, Dec. 17. 30 miles. Keneh. We got quietly through the bridge at 8 o’clock this morning. Found the Istar lying there, closed, and with flags down. Her men said that Mr. Sayce had gone to Cairo to see his dentist. We have had a splendid day and fine wind, and are now lying at Dendera, as Theo wants Carrie to see it tomorrow. Wednesday, Dec. 18. 18 miles. We got off as soon as T. and C. came back from the Temple, about 11 o’clock - and with good wind came to within 4 miles of Nagadah. Thursday, Dec. 19 21 miles. Started early, 6 o’clock, hoping to make Luxor tonight, but are tied up 4 miles below it. Very contrary and shifting wind - and cold - pulled to the anchor for hours. Beautiful night. Friday, Dec. 20. Luxer at last, arriving at 10:30 this morning. Came to our usual mooring place opposite the Castle - and soon the men were busy settling us. A huge mail waiting for us. Theo and Carrie went to Karnac this afternoon. Saturday, Dec. 21. I was at home all day. Theo and Carrie went to the Valley to look at the pit tomb Ayrton wrote about. They opened it - it proved only a pit with large vases - some sealed - some more or less broken. They report our little house finished, but too damp to live in at present - though Ayrton is living in one room. The Miriam, with tug Thothmes got in about 5 P.M. I received a note from Madame Maspero. They leave early tomorrow morning - bound for Aswân, and Halfa. One of the most wonderful moon rises this evening. Fourth Sunday in Advent. Dec. 22nd. Theor and Carri again to the Valley - but Carrie this time on a donkey - an exquisite day. I have had a beautiful quiet Sunday. This morning I was amused watching the loading of 2 camels with all our furnishings for our house in the Valley. One of the camels had the most delicious young camel with her - about a month old I should think, a lovely creature - so affectionate to its mother and so full of life and pranks. Monday, Dec. 23rd. All went over to the town this morning - Carrie and I to see Miss Buchanan - then to Mrs. Weigalls and saw the new baby - and I delivered the cup I brought over for Corinna Smith. Then I went to see poor Mrs. Murch - who is most sad - but very brave. Then we encountered Theo on our way home - and stopped at the Winter Palace to see the Iddings. Mr. Iddings, the girl, Carrie and Theo went to Karnak at 4 o’clock and Mrs. Iddings came over and had tea with me. Tuesday, Dec. 24. I have been busy all day in the boat, first getting my pots of bulbs into order - then the Christmas presents for the men - in which Jones and Carrie helped - and so did not go out - the morning lovely, but cold high winds this afternoon. Theo and Carrie went at 3 o’clock to Medinet Habu. Dec. 25. Wednesday. Christmas. A beautiful winters day - the distribution of presents to the men went off successfully. Mr. Ayrton came over to spend the night, and Mr. and Mrs. Iddings came to dine - and we had a concert from the men, which amused the Iddings very much. Thursday, Dec. 26. Carrie and I went over to the Winter Palace to lunch with the Iddings. They had such pleasant rooms - and the whole house looked very attractive. Carrie and Theo to Der el Bahari in the afternoon. Friday, Dec. 27. Theo and Carrie went over to the Valley for lunch, and had Mr. and Mrs. Iddings and their girls to lunch in the little house. They were delighted. Mr. Sayce called in the afternoon. Saturday, Dec. 28. A quiet day, mostly at home. Theo and Carrie at the Weigalls for tea, and afterwards met the Iddings at Karnae. Sunday, Dec. 29. The Iddings came over this morning to say good-bye - were very nice and friendly. Mr. Sayce at dinner. Monday, Dec. 30. Over in Luxor this morning - Theo and Mr. Sayce at shops. Tuesday, Dec. 31. At last a windless day. The Misses Collins came to tea - such a pleasant visit. Jan. 1. 1908. We went over to the Valley this morning for the day - Theodore having invited Sir Malcolm McIlwraith and his wife to lunch with us. A sister was with them - a quiet, beautiful day. Jan. 2nd. Another quiet fine day. Theo paid some visits in Luxor, and took Carrie to the races this afternoon. Jan. 3rd. Mr. Edmund Hayes and his daughter lunched with us, and Theo and Carrie went with them after to Der el Medinet, and Medinet Habu. Jan. 4th A warm wind - quiet day at home for me, Theo and Carry to Karnak. Jan. 5th. Mr. Erskine to dinner. Theo and Carrie to the Valley this morning - coming home he reports a promising tomb in sight - thinks it will take several days to clear the doorway. Jan. 6th. At home all day. Theo at Karnak. Jan. 7th. Mr. Haynes called to say goodbye. Jan. 8th. Theo at the Valley today - very hot. He thinks the tomb will prove only a pit tomb. Mr. Erskine lunched with us and Ayrton came over for the night. Jan. 9th. The tomb proves to be a shaft 30 ft. long - with a room about 20 ft. Water has been in it. Jan. 10th. Theo and Carrie to Karnac. I had a delightful visit from Mrs. Gardner. Jan. 11th. Theo and Carrie a long ride into the country. Jan. 12th. Theo and Carrie at the Valley. The tomb proves to be filled with an accretion of gravel and dried mud 5 ft. deep - exceedingly hard. Ayrton began the clearing this morning - at the S.W. corner, and on reaching 2 ft. from the bottom, came upon a deposit of silver and gold objects of most unique importance and value. They were busy with these all afternoon - containing cartouches of Sety II and Tausert - all of which Theo brought home with him. Mr. and Mrs. Weigall, and Mrs. Craggs and Ayrton to dinner. Jan. 13th. Ayrton here all day - inexpressibly shocked to hear of dear Miss Frances Collins’ death in church last evening. She was playing the organ in the little chapel and was in the midst of the “Gloria” when she suddenly stood up and fell to the floor dead! It was a beautiful passing away of her lovely, useful spirit. Jan. 14. Tuesday. Theo and Carrie went to Barnac at 4 o’clock. Mr. Winlock called with letter of introduction from Harold Jones. Jan. 16. Wednesday. Cold, cloudy day. Theo and Carrie to the Valley. Several beads etc. had been found. Jan. 16th. Thursday. Mr. Humphreys called and Miss Buchanan and friend. Cloudy cold day - strong S. W. wind. Carrie and I went over to the Luxor, to see the two old Miss Collins - so sad. Jan. 17th. Friday. Mr. and Mrs. Elliot Smith and her sister called soon after breakfast on their way to the Valley. We started ourselves after they left, as the Gorsts were to lunch with us. They arrived in time. Sir Eldon, Lady Gorst, his Sec. and Mrs. Weigall. It was a very pleasant lunch. I liked Sir Eldon very much - Lady G. exceedingly pretty and chic. Ayrton found a few more small gold objects yesterday. The Gorsts came to tea with us after we got home, to see all the gold. Jan. 18. Saturday. We had the whole Devonshire party to tea this afternoon to see the find. The Duke, the Duchess, her daughter Lady Gasford, and Lord Gasford and their daughter Lady Theodora Guest - with Mr. Weigall. THey looked at the gold things with great interest - at all the things in the boat, and begged for photographs of the boat and other things. The Duke, now a very old and broken man, is of course a great personage - and I was very interested in meeting him. He seemed more interested in the boat and its fittings, and was much amused with our chicken yard out on the sand. The Duchess, so celebrated in her way, was a wonderful old woman - painted and enamelled, with reddish wig, an old black hat, with painted lips - very keen to see everything. Lady Gosford very different, as nice as possible, and her husband and daughter were very pleasant. I heard the Duchess talking to Mr. Davis about how the Gorsts enjoyed their lunch yesterday in the Valley House, and I know from what she said that she intended Theo should invited them also to lunch there, and I don’t think he will be able to escape it. 19th Sunday after Epiphany. Jan, 19. Theo was again in the Valley today, with Mr. Winlock. M. Maspero and M. Lortet called and I showed them the gold things. Jan. 20, Monday. Theo again in the Valley with M. Lacau to lunch - quite cold. Jan. 21. Tuesday. The 2 Miss McKewus called today. Ayrton to tea. Ayrton to tea. A note from “Louisa” Duchess of Devonshire tells Theo that they are going to the Valley on Thursday, and will be happy to accept Mr. Davin’s invitation to lunch! Jan. 22. Wednesday. Theo again to the Valley to meet M. Maspero, Erakine and Weigall, and entered the new tomb. This was uncovered a few days since, but was shallow, and contained only some remains of workmens houses, and a number of large vases - filled with broken potsherds and small objects - the most important being a head about 7 in. high, which crowned the head of a mummied bird. Major Watson, and Mrs. Graham, an English woman came to tea and were shown the find, when Theo was in the valley this A.M. they opened a jar found in the gold tomb. It contained a broken vase, which was beautifully enamelled and bearing the cartouche of Sety II. This can be restored - also an alabaster vase, broken, with cartouche of Rameses II, of very good work. A lovely warm day. Mr. Erskine dined with us. Jan. 23rd. Thursday. Theo over in the Valley all day, having the Devonshire party to lunch. Carrie and I considerately stayed at home. Quite warm. Jan. 24. Friday. A quiet day for all at home. This afternoon Mr. Erskine came to say goodbye. M. and Madame Maspero with their sons came to see the find. Jan. 25. Saturday. Theo and Carrie went to Karnac this P.M. Jan. 26. Third Sunday after Epiphany. Theo and Carrie went to the Valley - in a very cold wind storm - the dust quite frightful. Mr. Carter lunched with me and Harold Jones, who arrived this morning. Mr. Lythgoe in Luxor. Jan. 27. Monday. Theo busy this morning with publication matter to send to London and Harold began his drawing of plates. Mr. Dalison and Lythgoe dined here. A very cold wind today. Jan. 28. Tuesday. A quiet day - Theo paying some visits. Jan. 29. Wednesday. Lovely and warm. Several people on boat today. Theo and Carrie to “Tombs of the Queens” this afternoon. Jan. 30. Thursday. A lot of people on the boat today - among them Mr. and Mrs. Smith of New York - he is something at the Met. Museum, wand with them Mr. and Mrs. Patterson of Chicago. M. Lortet also called - a pleasant and charming personage. Mr. Dallison dined here. Jan. 31. Friday. Theo as usual in the Valley with Lythgoe and Harold. Mr. Eric Villiers called this afternoon. Feb. 1. Saturday. A day at home. Sir Ernest Cassal and his daughter Mrs. Ashley and the Princess Teano of Rome came to tea also Mr. and Mrs. Schiff of New York, Mr. Villiers, Weigall and others. Feb. 2. 4th after Epiphany. In all day. Theo, Carrie and Harold visited the interesting tombs in Sheik Abdul Gurnah. M. and Mme. Maspero and M. Loret dined with us. Very warm this afternoon. Feb. 3rd. Monday. In Luxor this morning. Beautiful warm day. Feb. 4th. Tuesday. A quiet day. Mr. Sayce arrived on the Istar and is lying near - came to see us. M. Loret and M. Le Grand came to tea and to see the find. Ayrton lunched and dined with us. Feb. 5th. Wednesday. Mr. Sayce and Theo went to the Valley and lunched at the little house. Mr. Sayce also dined with us. Feb. 6th. Thursday. Mr. Erskine, Nicol and Mr. Whymper called. We went back with them to their boat to see Mr. Nicol’s pictures. Theo bought a beauty for £50. We started for Aswan at 1 o’clock and having a light wind got within 3 miles of Erment, where we had to stop for the night. Feb. 7th. Friday. A cold west wind blowing all day - a real gale - we towed and pulled to anchor, making 1-1/2 miles! Feb. 8th. Saturday. 30 miles. Towed from 7 A.M. to 10 o’clock. Then the gale began again and was so strong we furled the big sail and went on with the felucca sail, but struck a sand bank with such force that I was thrown off my feet - lamp overturned - ornaments etc. thrown. We then went on more slowly passing the Esneh bridge and sailing until 6 o’clock. Fifth Sunday after Epiphany. Feb. 9th. 31 miles. Started at 7 A.M. with light wind, growing stronger at 10 proving a gale. We again put up our felucca sail and went on with it until driven to the bank at 4 o’clock - afterwards going on until 5:30 - cold - and atmosphere filled with dust. Feb. 10. Monday. A fine good sailing day - have made 41 miles, and are 3 miles above Kom Ombo. Feb. 11. Tuesday. 23 miles. A difficult day, light, variable winds - which have brought us our old “Sycamore tree”. Feb. 12. Wednesday. We pulled to anchor around to our old place opposite the Cataract Hotel. Rowed around to the Savoy, and had tea in the lovely garden. Feb. 13. Thursday. A great gale of wind - filling the air with dust from the excavations on the island. I never knew a more disagreeable day. Harold and Carrie went to Philae, in spite of it. The big boom was taken down this morning, and we are ready to go down tomorrow. Feb. 14. Friday. The wind has prevented our starting. Carrie and I and Harold tried to see the excavations today, but the dust and wind drove us home. Feb. 15. Saturday. We started down at 9:40 this morning - but the north wind drove us to anchor very near the Savoy, where we have remained all day - wind, still strong. Feb. 16. Septuagesima Sunday. Started at 7 A.M. but were driven immediately to the bank, where we have lain all day. Warm. Feb. 17. Monday. 5 miles. Difficult to make even this distance. Feb. 18. Tuesday. 13 miles. Hard wind all day - cold. Feb. 19. Wednesday. 16 miles. Ditto yesterday. Feb. 20. Thursday. 34 miles. Edfu, a good days sail. Theo, Harold and Carrie visited the temple. Feb. 21. Friday. 32 miles. Very hot all day - sailing all the time. Feb. 22. Saturday. Hard gale. No miles. Feb. 23. Sexagesima Sunday. 7 miles. Strong wind. Feb. 24. Monday. 26 miles. We reached Luxor at 7 P.M. making 8 days from Aswan. Feb. 25. Tuesday. Theo and Harold went over to the Valley this morning to see the condition of the tomb Ayrton thinks he has found. They report that a stone stairway leading sharply down to a doorway has been found. Feb. 26. Wednesday. All of us went to the Valley this morning. The first door of the tomb is cleared - the corridor filled with rubbish. Ayrton crawled through with great difficulty and said he could see another door quite filled up. Theo thinks it an 18th dynasty tomb. Mr. and Mrs. Spreston called this evening, bringing a letter of introduction from Everard Fielding. She was a Miss de Trafford. The McKeever girls and Mr. Forbes called before dinner, and Mr. Dalison this evening. Feb. 27. Thursday. A quiet day - Harold has stayed in the Valley yesterday and today. Feb. 28. Friday. Theo over in the Valley all day - he reports that the door of the tomb is nearly free, and the at the men are clearing a passage through the debris in the corridor. Very hot today. Feb. 29. Saturday. Theo and Harold went of course to the Valley this morning. They found Ayrton, Dalison and Weigall waiting for them, and in spite of their protestations Theo insisted upon entering the tomb, and going first. They found it very difficult and hot. It soon declared itself as the tomb of Heromheb - a very long tomb - with corridors, well, fully fresh, of Gods, a magnificent Sarcophagus, and figures in wood and marble - a few bones - no mummy - 200 ft. long. March 1st. Quinquagesima Sunday. Theo met the Connaught party at Karnac this afternoon - and invited them to tea tomorrow! March 2. Monday. The Connaughts arrived from the Valley about 4:30 - quite an imposing array - several mounted guards arrived before them - and the Duchess and Princess Patricia arrived first. I took them to my room, and left them to tidy themselves. I found in the salon Miss Pelly, whom I had met before, Lady in waiting, then came the Duke with members of his staff - Major M. Murray - Lieut. the Hon. M. B. Ponsonby - Sir John Maxwell, whom we knew, Major Watson, an old friend, and Mr. Weigall. They looked first at the gold find, and then went on deck for tea. I thought I had never seen so many nice looking men together - and the Connaughts are delightful, simple people to entertain. After they went away the McKewers and Mr. and Mrs. Forbes came. They said they had been watching from the Hotel opposite the royal entourage on the sand, waiting until it was over. March 3rd. Tuesday. Mr. Dalison and Ayrton came to lunch. Theo and Carrie again [cut off--illegible] when they met the Duke’s party. Lovely day. March 4th. Ash Wednesday. All the family at Karnac this afternoon. March 5th. Thursday. Theo and Harold at the Valley today. I went over to Luxor to say goodbye to Miss Buchanan. March 6th. Friday. A really hot day. Mr. and Mrs. Roa and Mohamed Mohassib to tea. March 7th. Saturday. Harold and Theo have been in the Valley all day with the photographer, who came up from Cairo, to do the tomb. March 8th. First Sunday in Lent. I am the only member of the household who did not go to the Valley today. All went into the tomb. Mr. Dalison and Mr. Ayrton dined with us, and spent the night - sleeping on the dock divans - very jolly evening. March 9. Monday. 82-1/2 miles. Theo had engaged a sugar tug to take us down the river. We started at 9:10 and reached Nag Hamadi at 7:30 P.M. No wind, very warm, anchored just above the bridge. March 10. Tuesday. 51 miles. Passed the bridge at 8 A.M. and then anchored until 25 M. before 11 - allowed the tug to cool. Very hot all day. The sunset was wonderfully beautiful. March 11. Wed. Asyt. 68 miles. A gale all day - tug on the sand for an hour this morning - afterwards sticking again for 3 hours - arrived in spite of all at Asyût at 6:30. March 12. Thursday. Beni Hassan. Passed the lock at 8 o’clock, early. The sand is bad in this part of the river - we have to go carefully. March 13. Friday. 60 miles. Started at 6. Stopped at Minia, for mail one hour and 3 hours at Sheik Fadl to cool. Rather cool out of the sun. March 14. Saturday. near Bedrescheyn. 90 miles. Started again at 6, stopping about 10 to assist a dahabya sticking in the mud, to get off. It proved to be a party from Chicago - Mr. Smith the father of Harold Smith. March 15th. 2nd Sunday in Lent. Arrived at the Ghezireh bridge at 11 A.M. having made our 450 miles from Luxor in 7 days. Lord Fielding dined with us. March 16th. Cairo. Came to our old place at the Ghezireh Palace this A.M. Spent the morning at the Museum and and had tea with the Iddings in the afternoon. A visit from Mr. and Mrs. Fraser this evening. March 17th. Tuesday. Capt. Lyons and Mrs. Lyons and Mr. and Mrs. Iddings came this A.M. to see the find. We took all the things to the Museum this morning. A good riddance. March 18th. Wednesday. Morning at Museum - afternoon driving and visiting. March 19th. Thursday. We were again at the Museum this morning. Dinner at the Iddings where we met some pleasant people: Mr. and Miss Farnell - Major Skifeuton - Smythe - Sir John Beard and daughter, Lady Bathhurst and others. March 20th. Friday. Driving and shopping this morning - Major Watson called this afternoon. March 21st. Saturday. Lunched at the British Embassy - a charming visit - Sir Eldon was particularly interesting and agreeable. Lady Gorst, very pretty, chic and pleasant. Mr. Hall Caine and his wife were there among others. March 22nd. 3rd Sunday in Lent. We have been staying at the Ghezireh Palace Hotel since Thursday. Rain all day. Mr. Sayce dined with us. March 23rd. Monday. Very busy. Our last day. Went in the afternoon to Madame Artin Pashat to tea - interesting. Mr. Dalison and Joe Smith dined with us. Mr. Dalison has been with us for 2 days, and is crossing with us to Naples where we are to spend 3 days. Mr. Carter came to tea with us this afternoon. 1