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new module as remote #46
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ahh i wonder why they changed it to 2 AAA then? ie if the power consumption is the same |
I can being that IKEA devs have not maximizing the sleep current but the module / chip is very low power. The reason for the 2 AAA shall being re chargeable and is the new green way IKEA have starting and also all new device having only recycles repairer packing (all plastic is gone). If its little hungry put 2 CR4530 in parallel on the new PCB (some tuya is having 2 CR2032 and was having one old MG1B module). Thanks for the PCB layout !! |
currently we use OpenOCD on a pi to flash firmware can that be used with the new remote too? |
If they have adding support for ARM Cortex®-M33 the last half year but i have not reading that have being done. The module datasheet https://www.silabs.com/documents/public/data-sheets/mgm210l-datasheet.pdf |
i just saw that you had wires soldered to the programming header and wondered how you dumped/flashed firmware |
Main flash and data is dumped without problem with Silabs WSTK (it have integrated OBD J-Tag) and Segger J-flasher and the same made with tuya ZS3L modules on LIDL device but have loading the LIDL LED stripe controller with EZSP 6.1.0.0 and is using it as one coordinator in ZHA. |
sorry for "stepping in a turd" here, but are there other ways to dumb the firmware? using a raspberry pi right now with the current modules it seems costly to get a new programmer, but on the other hand i bet the one from silabs uses windows software, not that i mind linux but it could be nice to have everything on the same machine so its a bit up in the air, nice to use the setup i have, but that means a different machine just to flash firmware, with a new setup i can use my main pc |
being not so tech savy, i assume you use the debug connector we use the same currently but not sure if that would work, i do not have a one of the new modules, but @CableCatDK does |
With one J-Link (every original version is working also the EDU) and you can building one "OBD clone" from one STM32 board and using it in windows but dont letting Segger updating the firmware on it then its being soft broken. Using Segger flasher and commands programs is working OK for dumping but can being it dont like flashing if having one clone or ST-Link flasher (that is ST OBD flasher only allowed flashing ST chips). The pins used for flashing is the same SWD for both 1 and 2 gen modules only changed is the CPU that must being supported by the probe and / or flashing software. |
So for the danish dummie here it would make more sense to just get the WSTK programmer? all i'm after is being able to dumb firmware from the 4 button remote and then flash it again to the same module. Thoase module i can get from mouser. |
The WSTK is expensive but then you also is getting access to Silabs Zigbee stack SDK and one good thing is that with the WSTK you can also unbrick "hard software bricked devices" (boot loader flashed at wrong address with Silabs commander) that is not possible dong with other probes (i have bricking 3 IKEA modules and recovering them with my WSTK). The cheapest is one Chinese ODB clone but dont have any grantee that is working so long (then Segger is blocking the serial numbers of them) but one Segger EDU is not so expensive and working very well and is much smaller then one WSTK. Then dumping the flash is the main flash and also the user data that is needed then its can (but not always) having configuration for the firmware that making it working in one different way. |
First release of STYRBAR to Danish wall switch is now released: |
Very nice !!! I think the Zigbee module is not so easy getting in the open market the IKEA, tuya Philips and many more is having high demand for it and Silabs cant producing enough of it but the have opening and certifying more productions cites the last year (if reading they internal company PM that is also distributed to devs). Our (community) firmware cooker Gary R have ordering some hundred modules for nearly one year go and cant getting them shipped then they is out of stock before the shipping is arriving to the seller. The cheapest device i can getting in Wien is the same new E14 or E27 you have used for 8€ and need reprogramming the module. But i was 2 week in southern Spain for holiday and doing one "pi stop" at IKEA in Montpelier and was baying 2 stainless steel version Styrbar for only 10€ and in most countries they is costing 15€. Great that the power consumption is OK and not killing the battery and also possible putting one large inside if needed. Thanks for the schematics it great to having if doing one other version of one wall switch. For dumping the firmware you can finding one version with GDB in my git but is also possible using Sergger Commander and also Silabs Commander but the last is not so easy like using the GUI from Segger Commander for normal users. One more time great work done Per !!! |
In Denmark STYRBAR is 69 DKK, whis is 9,28 euro. The nye E14 is 59 DKK, which includes the new module. The module alone is about 100 DKK. Reprogramming the module (in Danish with nice pictures): https://rbx.dk/w/smart-home-knapper-og-paneler/flash-ikea-zigbee-j-link.html |
For my "Billy EZSP" project i was baying the cheapest "family pack" for 10€ with one E27 WW (for the module) and E1744 remote and its was very useful. So better baying the nye clear E14 and getting little spare parts for the lab ;-)) I think IKEA was having one very hard to getting the good deal with Silabs (or it was Silabs that was having the problem getting the deal) then some FCC papers is over 2 year old with the MG21 module and they was having them on hold then was not getting one good price from Silabs but its very normal for IKEA if not getting one good deal then is normally leaving the project and taking the costs (and some time the manufacturing company is going bankruptcy then not having any large customer like one Swedish bed manufacture). Its also looks like the SYMFONISK shall have getting one MG21 module but was getting one ICC-1-A in the end. So very likely many Zigbee modules from IKEA lights is going to the DIY and professional projects but is not so bad !! The latest is IKEA have ordering containers then they cant getting the products to the market then its shortages of them (Maersk ?) and is also looking baying own ships for going around the time and price of the shipping from China. One question can you reusing the 5 switches from the Styrbar PCB to your custom PCB ? |
The TACH switches are different on my PCB. |
Is it Synfonisk 2 ?? |
You should watch this video I made: https://youtu.be/msPRU2MsIXY Here are the functions, when pair directly with a lightbulb: |
Nice !!So normal OnOff and Level commands plus 4 more functions IKEA have cocked in the firmware. The reset / sync of light is long press right or left button on Styrbar. |
By the way OnOff and OpenClose is using the same firmware and you can dumping the flash aria "user data" and flashing it on the other and you have transforming it. |
Very interesting. Can one change the user data over the air? |
First version of RODRET OnOff Dimmer Switch have arrived !!6.99 € is better then the first gen buttons. |
Was trying connecting to the debug with my Silabs WSDK but it was not liking it. If some one have one device and one SWD debugger pleas try see if can getting contact with the chip then its more then likely on EFR32MG21 without hardware secure storage as the normal MG21 module is using but i can its have other ports that the module but its depends of the chip version used. |
@MattWestb : I tried first with a converted ST-Link to J-Link without much success. |
Sound great and thanks @jlunz !! Also most J-Link clones is not working with MG2X chips then dont have the security implanted in the debugger and if converting it with Segger its being locked to only flashing the OME (ST) chips. I shall making one test dumping the flash in the weekend and reporting back. Do you also have "found " the pin / pad function so we can see if its possible flashing it on the normal MG21 module ? One more thanks for the great information !!! |
I was not completely sure if I had unlocked debug access / erased flash with my ST-Link before, so I wired up a new remote.
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Servus J. OK the chip was debug locked ;-(( Can you dumping the user data flash part ? I have not have time looking on my test device but i have 2 in production and looks working great but one LIDL / tuya power strip was playing nasty games and was destroying my production network by have power problems and one IKEA outlet and one GU10 CWS3 was repowering oft and was making device accouterments that is being badly handled by all silabs chips and must being repowered for working OK after that (shall being fixed in later Zigbee stacks). Thanks for sharing your findings and good hacking for you. Edit: Debug unlock is erasing the main flash and the RAM but not the user data then we have testing and looks working OK so we cant dumping the main flash but as long IKEA have not doing more trikes we can using one standard bootloader and for getting it working OK we hope. |
Ok, just to be sure:
and then try to read userdata:
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I think you can doing the unlock from GUI but i have not trying it and shall doing the same thing as the CLI. I was not getting the region working but other users was having working OK so i was using memory addresses and its working the same way and shall being OK. It can being that you need adding the standard Out file is HEX good i normally making more formats if some its not being OK and BIN is easy reading and editing but no check for errors but all is working and can being converted with commander if the in file is OK. |
Here we go: It has the following in: 00000000: ffff ffff ffff ffff ffff ffff ffff ffff ................ ... 000001f0: ffff ffff ffff ffff ffff ffff ffff ffff ................ 00000200: 524f 4452 4554 2044 696d 6d65 72ff ffff RODRET Dimmer... 00000210: ffff ffff ffff ffff ffff ffff ffff ffff ................ 00000220: ffff ffff ffff ffff ffff ffff ffff ffff ................ 00000230: 0145 3232 3031 ffff ffff ffff ffff ffff .E2201.......... 00000240: ffff 00e2 ffff ffff ffff ffff ffff ffff ................ 00000250: ffff ffff ffff ffff ffff ffff ffff ffff ................ 00000260: ffff ffff ffff ffff ffff 0000 ffff ffff ................ 00000270: ffff ffff ffff ffff ffff ffff ffff ffff ................ ... 000003f0: ffff ffff ffff ffff ffff ffff ffff ffff ................ Full output, for those wanting to do the same
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Thanks its looks very good perhaps i shall flashing it one one MG21 module but i dont knowing the pinout of the paring and the up and down buttons so not so easy testing is its working more then the name is OK red. The interesting is the 0X24x and 0X26x that is doing the hard and software settings of the device if its being one OnOff, OpenCloce or one Shortcut button. |
You're welcome! |
Thank one more time i shall look if the information and doing some digging and test. By the way then you have getting the blink working, then is you releasing your multi functions firmware for the device with okta button press and so on ???? ;-) |
How do you pull a button? On STYRBAR it is short to GND. But on SYMFONISK it is short to PA03. |
S2 Pairing is shutting to GND but the other 2 is not GND but can being VSS after the voltage regulator then its not + from the battery. Must looking more. Edit: S3 is using the same 2 liens as LED1 and no GND is being used for it so must using shifting polarity or shutting the LED for the button press. Edit 2 Updating my observations and test: |
I have unpacking the OTA file from TF OTA-feed and converting it to GBL, S37 and BIN if some one like trying recreating one working device by first flashing one working boot loader and then the "APP". |
@MattWestb I dumped 47 x ICC-A-1 from different devices. I might be useful. |
Great thanks !!!I have not time but i thinking doing one coordinator as i have doing with the first and second gen module of the Rodret remote it shall not being any large problem only finding the right pins on the chop and soldering cables. I can that the RP part is limited RF power but is the same with the modules the is not using the max for getting stability and one symmetric RF link. Have you thinking doing one switch by cutting of the PCB and connecting your switches instead of the Silabs module ? |
I have not rally looked into the Rodret remote. Its large size only fits 1M5 FUGA modules (68mm high). For that size you really want at least 6 buttons, not only 2. So maybe one could flash to SYMFONISK firmware on it. Then make a daughterboard with 6-8 buttons. The result would be a 1M5 FUGA switch which uses 1xAAA batteri, but requires space behind it. My current SYMFONISK to FUGA conversion uses 2xCR2032, and can be mounted directly on the wall. Alkaline AAA: 860–1,200 mAh |
Rodret PCB is having one buck converter (FCC papers is saying its 2 different types is being used) but i think its not working with CRXXXX cells and putting in one AAA is taking too much space so no go. |
@MattWestb The firmware is very picky about module types. I bought MGM210LA22JNF2 instead of MGM210L022JNF2, and the firmware is not working. |
Its not so well documented but the A version think have hardware secure storage (vault) and the = is having software or not implanted. |
@jlunz Do you knowing the ports the RX and TX TP/Pads is using ? |
@MattWestb I have made a quick protoype to use EmberZNet on a E2201, so you can check the pinout here (and maybe the software as well): Hope that helps! |
Thanks i shall trying cooling one UART bootloader with TX C00 / RX C01 and see if i can getting it working OK then it shall being possible doing NCP and RCP / Thread firmware for it. I have doing debug unlock on both Rodret and Somerig and then flashing Styrbars main flash for getting one "IKEA Bootloadre" and then the latest OTA and it working OK. Thanks Julian for info i reporting back if all is going well !! |
Have one 4.4.0.0 / 7.4.0.0 X-modeme bootloader that looks loading OK and terminal commands looks working OK.
Also was putting in |
Fast cooked NCP 7.4.0.0 with only hardware configured (SW flow control enabled) and i can being flashed from the bootloader and is starting OK and i can controlling one IKEA GU10 WW and one parasoll re-joined OK so its working but its not god configured but as one prof of consent its OK. |
RCP 4.4.0.0 115200 baud no FC, only tested with
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hi
this project on thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3655354 has been much fun to me
it was easy to remove a zigbee module from their light bulbs and then reprogramm it to work as a 5 button remote
but now ikea is slowly replacing their zigbee modules with a new one that for the bulbs concern are far more power hungry and why should ikea bother as they are intended to be always on mains power
and their new 5 button remote do not have a module at all but is one complete pcb and to top it off they now use 2 AAA batteries
that makes it impossible to install it in the danish LK Fuga design, it will simply be to big to sit flush with the other switches
anyone that have started to look in to if the new modules can be reprogrammed to work as a remote and be energy efficient so that it can run on coin cells?
i emagine that the firmware needs to be taken from the new 5 botton remote and changed so that its as efficent as possible
of course the chip on the new module an the new 5 botton remote needs to be the same
and the pcb in the new remote is way to be to be but in a LK switch, from what i have seen online its 2 cm to big in each direction
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