The 3MS is short for MMMS, which stands for Modular Multi Material System
Discord
Join the 3MS channel at the Happy Hare Discord server here.
Join the 3MS Discord:
"},{"location":"#inspiration","title":"Inspiration","text":"Model: Sheep by Cipis
Model: Monolith Cryptic Calendar by Sevro
Model: Voron Cube (bundled with OrcaSlicer), painted by me in OrcaSlicer
Printed at 50% scale
Model: T-rex by Cipis
Model: Striped lizard with pupils by EngMike
"},{"location":"#photos","title":"Photos","text":"Photos Full Printer3MSY Splitter"},{"location":"#videos","title":"Videos","text":"West3D Video SeriesThank you to Allen Rowand from West3D for making this ongoing series on the 3MS.
"},{"location":"#why-3ms","title":"Why 3MS?","text":"Why use the 3MS when there are many other multi-material systems?
Here are a few reasons:
With that said, there are a few reasons why you might not want to/be able to use the 3MS:
To use the 3MS, your setup has to meet the following requirements:
Think of the 3MS as an extension to your current extruder's length. It allows for switching filaments without compromising any of the benefits of your printer's extruder.
The 3MS's motors work together with your printer's extruder. This way, there won't be any additional resistance from pulling the filament through a disabled extruder. Also, unloads and loads to/from the printer's extruder are fully synchronized with the 3MS. This allows for even faster toolchanges!
"},{"location":"#get-started","title":"Get Started","text":"To get started with the 3MS, see the Master Instructions.
Get Started
"},{"location":"#what-about-the-3dchameleon","title":"What about the 3DChameleon?","text":"I recently created a klipper plugin for the 3DChameleon after purchasing a unit. I'm sure my Chameleon could have worked if I had tuned it further, but after several months with only partial success, I gave up. I am still open to pull requests for 3dchameleon-klipper and will do my best to respond to issues there, but I won't be able to test it myself anymore.
If you are having reliability issues with the 3DChameleon, see 3DChameleon Conversion.
"},{"location":"compare/","title":"Comparison of Multimaterial Systems","text":"Not sure if you want to use the 3MS? Check this comparison between several common multimaterial systems.
3MS Modular Multimaterial System for Klipper 3D Printers
Pros:
Simple Design
Reliability
Documentation
Modular Design
Active Community
Price (~$140)
Cons:
Compatibility (only Klipper)
Box Turtle MMU Automated Filament Changer
Pros:
Reliability
Active Community
Documentation
Cons:
Expandability (only four lanes)
Compatibility (only Klipper)
Price ($300)
ERCF v2 An expandable MMU for Klipper-based 3D-printers
Pros:
Reliability
Modular Design
Active Community
Documentation
Cons:
Compatibility (only Klipper)
Complexity
TradRack by Annex Engineering
Pros:
Reliability
Modular Design
Active Community
Documentation
Cons:
Compatibility (only Klipper)
Complexity
3DChameleon MK4 Automatic Color Changer
Pros:
Compatibility
No custom firmware
Price ($200)
Cons:
Reliability
Documentation
SMuFF Smart Multi Filament Feeder
Pros:
Reliability
Modular Design
Documentation
Cons:
Complexity
Prusa MMU3 Multi Material Upgrade
Pros:
Reliability
Support
Documentation
Cons:
Compatibility
Price ($300)
Due to the modularity of the 3MS, there are many ways to set it up. This guide attempts to encompass all supported ways of setting up the 3MS.
"},{"location":"instructions/#basic-steps","title":"Basic Steps","text":"The basic steps this guide will follow are:
Before starting the instructions, a basic understanding of how the 3MS works is recommended. There are two types of components in the 3MS:
Controller
This controls the 3MS stepper motors. This is usually an extra 3D printer mainboard purchased specifically for the 3MS. If your existing 3D printer mainboard has spare stepper ports, you can use them for the 3MS.
The available configurations are specific to either an external mainboard setup, or utilizing spare stepper ports on your existing mainboard. If you are utilizing spare stepper ports, the name of the config will include \"(main MCU)\"
\"controller\" can be used interchangeably with \"MCU\" and \"control board\"
Filament Units
These move the filament. These are standard MK8 extruders (used on Ender 3's). You can use different extruders for the filament units, as long as you can mount them securely and they can attach to a PTFE tube. MK8 extruders are used as the default due to their low cost.
\"filament unit\" and \"gate\" can be used interchangeably
The number of filaments you will be able to print with is equal to the number of filament units you have. For example, two filament units will let you print with two colors. It is important to note that one filament unit will NOT let you print in multimaterial.
"},{"location":"instructions/#1-getting-a-bom","title":"1. Getting a BOM","text":"Go to BOM to view the bill of materials for the number of filament units you want. Example BOM for two filament units and a SKR Mini E3 V2:
Name Price Quantity Link Notes SKR Mini E3 V2 $34.99 1 Amazon Duponts $9.99 1 Amazon These wires are only sufficient to run steppers, not heaters 12V PSU $7.39 1 Amazon This PSU is only sufficient to run steppers, not heaters NEMA17 Stepper Motor $9.99 2 Amazon You can use a pancake stepper if you want, but it will have less torque MK8 Metal Extruder $9.99 2 Amazon Capricorn PTFE Tubing $11.49 1 Amazon You likely won't need this for every unit, as this is usually too long for only one unit"},{"location":"instructions/#2-assembling-your-3ms","title":"2. Assembling your 3MS","text":"Follow Assembly to assemble your 3MS.
"},{"location":"instructions/#3-configuring-your-3ms","title":"3. Configuring your 3MS","text":"Set up Happy Hare firmware following this guide.
"},{"location":"instructions/#4-calibrating-your-3ms","title":"4. Calibrating your 3MS","text":"After installing and configuring Happy Hare, the 3MS requires some calibrations. Follow Calibration to calibrate your 3MS.
"},{"location":"contributing/","title":"Contributing","text":"If you want to contribute to the 3MS project, follow the instructions below.
"},{"location":"contributing/#development-setup","title":"Development Setup","text":"Follow Development Setup to setup your system for development with the 3MS.
"},{"location":"contributing/#pull-request","title":"Pull Request","text":"Finally, submit a pull request. A developer will get back to you soon with feedback, before merging your pull request into the main project.
Thank you for your contribution to the 3MS project!
"},{"location":"contributing/devsetup/","title":"Development Setup","text":"Follow this guide to setup your system for development with the 3MS.
"},{"location":"contributing/devsetup/#documentation-changes","title":"Documentation Changes","text":"docs branch)pipenv install\npipenv shell\nmkdocs serve\nFollow this guide to convert a 3DChameleon to a 3MS.
"},{"location":"guides/3dchameleon/#bom","title":"BOM","text":"Name Price Quantity Link Notes SKR Mini E3 V2 $34.99 1 Amazon Duponts $9.99 1 Amazon These wires are only sufficient to run steppers, not heaters 12V PSU $7.39 1 Amazon This PSU is only sufficient to run steppers, not heaters MK8 Metal Extruder $9.99 2 Amazon Alternatively, you can use this Dual-drive MK8 based extruderThe final cost of this upgrade is around $70.
"},{"location":"guides/3dchameleon/#instructions","title":"Instructions","text":"Next, follow the Master Instructions except for the BOM section.
"},{"location":"hidden/hidden-assembly/","title":"Hidden assembly","text":""},{"location":"hidden/hidden-assembly/#3ms-kit-assembly","title":"3MS Kit Assembly","text":"This page is under construction
This page is the assembly instructions for future 3MS kits. Instructions on this page will change, so don't follow it until 3MS Kits are officially released. Anything on this page is subject to change.
Tip
Even though each step only looks like it has one image, if you click on the image you can view several more images for each step.
"},{"location":"hidden/hidden-assembly/#electronics-assembly","title":"Electronics Assembly","text":""},{"location":"hidden/hidden-assembly/#step-1-preparing-the-power-cables","title":"Step 1 Preparing the Power Cables","text":"Strip both ends of the red and black power cables and twist the ends.
Use wire cutters that can strip 14AWG wire.
Strip 5mm of insulation off of both ends of both wires.
Twist the ends of the stripped wires tightly.
Insert both power cables into the power supply.
Loosen the terminals with a phillips-head screwdriver.
Insert the red power cable into the positive PSU terminal.
Insert the black power cable into the negative PSU terminal.
Tighten both terminals securely with a phillips-head screwdriver.
Insert both power cables into the control board.
Locate the HVIN power input on the control board and loosen both terminals with a flat-head screwdriver.
Insert the red power cable into the positive HVIN terminal.
Insert the black power cable into the negative HVIN terminal.
Tighten both terminals securely with a flat-head screwdriver.
Install the VUSB and HVIN jumpers.
Install the VUSB jumper.
For each stepper driver, select the HVIN input by installing a jumper on each driver.
Install all four EZ2209 stepper drivers.
Install an EZ2209 into each stepper driver slot.
Download
Designed by chadk
Printables Link
Choose either of the mounting/enclosure options on the left for your 3MS and print them out.
Designed by ImChrono
Printables Link
Print this Y-splitter according to the instructions in its Printables page.
Follow this guide to assemble your 3MS.
"},{"location":"setup/assembly/#printed-parts","title":"Printed Parts","text":""},{"location":"setup/assembly/#mounting","title":"Mounting","text":"Univeral M3 Mount for Extruder Note that this requires 2-4 M3 bolts and a place to screw the bolts into (like an aluminum extrusion with T-nuts). Designed by 3DCoded.
3MS Box This is designed for four filament units and a BTT MMB. Designed by chadakken.
4-way Y-splitter designed by ImChrono.
4-way Y-splitter with ECAS04 and M3 Bolt designed by Jager-f.
4-way Y splitter with ECAS04 designed by 3DCoded.
Note for Certain Printers
If your printer has Klipper running internally (not on an external computer like a Raspberry Pi), the controller (if not a main MCU config) is plugged into a USB port on the printer itself.
Follow one of the following guides based on your controller:
Recommended: BTT MMB
Other Controllers:
First, choose the control board you want to use in your 3MS. Choose a controller from the available ones here.
"},{"location":"setup/bom/#number-of-filament-units","title":"Number of filament units","text":"First, choose the number of filament units you want. Each filament unit lets you print with an additional filament. Two filament units are the minimum. You can add or remove filament units after building, but the BOM and configuration will vary based on how many filament units you want.
"},{"location":"setup/bom/#controller-boms","title":"Controller BOMs","text":"Choose the BOM for your chosen controller from the list below:
Recommended: BTT MMB
Other Controllers:
For each filament unit, purchase this BOM:
Name Quantity Price Link Notes NEMA17 Stepper Motor 1 $9.99 Amazon You can use a pancake stepper if you want, but it will have less torque MK8 Metal Extruder 1 $9.99 Amazon Alternatively, you can use this Dual-drive MK8 based extruder PTFE Tubing 1 $8.99 Amazon You likely won't need this for every unit, as this is usually too long for only one unit"},{"location":"setup/calibration/","title":"Calibration","text":"Follow this guide to calibrate your 3MS.
Original Documentation
This guide is a simplified version of the official Happy Hare documentation. I highly recommend you read it as it contains useful information and goes more in detail if you are having trouble with the calibrations.
"},{"location":"setup/calibration/#verify-filament-sensors","title":"Verify Filament Sensors","text":"Before calibrating, it is important to ensure that your filament sensors are working properly.
Run in your Klipper console:
QUERY_ENDSTOPS\nand verify the output. For each endstop, open means no filament detected, and TRIGGERED means filament present. Re-run the command several times, inserting/removing filament to each of the sensors, to verify that each filament sensor properly detects filament.
First, calibrate your gear steppers (filament units). The goal of this calibration is to ensure the filament actually moves as far as expected.
First, detach the PTFE tubing from each of the filament units.
For each filament unit (gate), repeat the following steps:
Run the following commands in your Klipper console:
MMU_SELECT GATE=n\nMMU_TEST_MOVE MOVE=100\nwhere n is the gate number you are calibrating (starting at zero).
The filament should move forwards. If it moves backwards, invert your gear stepper. Measure the distance the filament moved out of the extruder. Using side cutters the same as before can be helpful for this. Run the following command in your Klipper console:
MMU_CALIBRATE_GEAR MEASURED=n\nwhere n is the measured distance.
Repeat step c. The filament should move exactly 100mm.
If you are using an encoder, like a BTT SFS (Smart Filament Sensor), you need to calibrate your encoder.
Run in your Klipper console:
MMU_CALIBRATE_ENCODER\nIf you notice any of your gear steppers moving filament in the opposite direction as expected, you need to invert the gear stepper. There are two options to do this:
To invert a gear stepper in software, open mmu_hardware.cfg and invert the dir_pin for the respective stepper.
Example, if T1 is moving backwards:
[stepper_mmu_gear_1]\n...\ndir_pin: mmu: PC5\n[stepper_mmu_gear_1]\n...\ndir_pin: !mmu: PC5 # <-- Note the ! in front of mmu\nTip
If the pin already has a ! in front of it, remove it to invert it.
Restart Klipper.
"},{"location":"setup/controllers/","title":"Controllers","text":"Follow this guide to determine which controller to use in your 3MS.
"},{"location":"setup/controllers/#options","title":"Options","text":"The 3MS works on multiple different controllers.
Info
If your printer's mainboard has spare stepper ports, you can use them to control 3MS steppers. You can open an issue on Github (there's a template) to get a configuration made for your specific setup. Any controllers listed with \"(main MCU)\" use those spare stepper plugs.
Choose one of the following supported controllers (a checked box indicates it is fully tested, and an empty box indicates testers wanted):
BTT MMB (4 colors)
Recommended
Einsy RAMBo (main MCU) with SKR Mini E3 V2.0 (3ms MCU)
Expert modification
Geetech A30T
Max filament units: 4
MCU Name: 3ms
Route the wires from the NEMA17's to the controller board. Follow this table to determine which port to plug the motors into:
Filament Unit # Motor Port 0 M1 1 M2 2 M3 3 M4Now, grab your 12V PSU and two M-M duponts, one red and one black (M-M means that there is metal coming out of both ends of the cable). Plug the PSU into the wall, but don't plug the screw terminals into the PSU (the screw terminals have green)
Plug the black wire into the negative terminal of the screw terminals
Danger
These dupont cables are too thin to run much more than the stepper motors. If you run a heater or other power-intensive device off of the MMB board, the duponts and/or PSU can melt/catch fire. To reduce the risk of this, you can double up on the duponts or get thicker wires.
Following this image, locate the HVIN and GND inputs (top left)
Route the two wires inside closest to the HVIN and GND inputs
Plug in the VUSB jumper
Verify all connections
Warning
If the wires are plugged into the wrong place, or swapped polarities, your MMB, Stepper motors, and/or PSU can be badly damaged.
Plug the PSU screw terminals into the PSU wire
Plug the MMB into your Klipper host with the cable that came with it.
If the MMB lights up, you wired it correctly!
"},{"location":"setup/controllers/bttoctopusmain/","title":"BTT Octopus (main MCU)","text":"Warning
This configuration may not work with the BTT Octopus Pro.
Max filament units: 4
MCU Name: main
This configuration is a main MCU configuration, meaning that your printer should already be running off a BTT Octopus and you don't need to purchase one.
Per filament unit:
1x TMC2209 ($7 each)
"},{"location":"setup/controllers/bttoctopusmain/#wiring","title":"Wiring","text":"Route the wires from the NEMA17's to the controller board. Follow this table to determine which port to plug the motors into:
Filament Unit # Motor Port 0 MOTOR7 1 MOTOR6 2 MOTOR5 3 MOTOR4"},{"location":"setup/controllers/einsyrambo-skrminie3v2/","title":"Einsy RAMBo (main MCU) with SKR Mini E3 V2","text":"Danger
This guide is an expert guide only
Info
This modification is designed for the Prusa MK3/S/S+, and depends on this Klipper configuration.
"},{"location":"setup/controllers/einsyrambo-skrminie3v2/#why","title":"Why?","text":"When printing fast, the TMC2130's on the Einsy RAMBo can get quite loud. The TMC2209's on the SKR Mini are much quieter and support denser microstepping.
"},{"location":"setup/controllers/einsyrambo-skrminie3v2/#bom","title":"BOM","text":"Name Price Quantity Link Notes PSU -> Einsy Cable $7.99 1 PartsBuilt3D Stepperonline NEMA17 $9.99 each Amazon 2 Replaces current XY motors"},{"location":"setup/controllers/einsyrambo-skrminie3v2/#wiring","title":"Wiring","text":"First, unplug the 3MS steppers from the SKR Mini, and the XY steppers from the Einsy RAMBo. The motors will need to be switched due to different connector types between boards.
This table outlines the major wiring of this modification.
Einsy RAMBo SKR Mini E3 V2 Motor PSU+ POWER+ PSU- POWER- XM 3ms0 YM 3ms1 XM X YM Y"},{"location":"setup/controllers/einsyrambo-skrminie3v2/#configuration","title":"Configuration","text":"In your printer.cfg, comment out these lines:
#[include klipper-prusa-mk3s/mk3s/steppers.cfg]\n#[include klipper-prusa-mk3s/mk3s/tmc2130.cfg]\nNext, copy the contents of 3ms/controllers/einsy_rambo_with_skr_mini/xy-motors.cfg and ze-motors.cfg to klipper-prusa-mk3s/skr/xy.cfg, and klipper-prusa-mk3s/mk3s/ze.cfg, respectively.
Add the following new lines:
printer.cfg[include klipper-prusa-mk3s/skr/xy.cfg]\n[include klipper-prusa-mk3s/mk3s/ze.cfg]\nRestart Klipper.
"},{"location":"setup/controllers/geetech-a30t/","title":"Geetech A30T","text":"Contributed by @ImChrono
Max filament units: 7
MCU Name: 3ms
To flash Klipper firmware to the A30T, run the following command and see the following screenshot:
cd ~/klipper\nmake menuconfig\nNext, connect the BOOT0 jumper on the A30T and run:
stm32flash -i ',,,,,' -v -w out/klipper.bin -g 0 /dev/serial/by-id/<your-mcu-id-here>\nRoute the wires from the NEMA17's to the controller board. Follow this table to determine which port to plug the motors into:
Filament Unit # Motor Port 0 X 1 Y 2 Z0 3 Z1 4 E1 5 E2 6 E3Now, grab your 12V PSU and two M-M duponts, one red and one black (M-M means that there is metal coming out of both ends of the cable). Plug the PSU into the wall, but don't plug the screw terminals into the PSU (the screw terminals have green)
Plug two black wires into the negative terminal of the screw terminals
Danger
These dupont cables are too thin to run much more than the stepper motors. If you run a heater or other power-intensive device off of the motherboard, the duponts and/or PSU can melt/catch fire. To reduce the risk of this, you can double up on the duponts or get thicker wires.
Route the four wires inside closest to your chosen input
Verify all connections
Warning
If the wires are plugged into the wrong place, or swapped polarities, your motherboard, Stepper motors, and/or PSU can be badly damaged.
Plug the PSU screw terminals into the PSU wire
If the motherboard lights up, you wired it correctly!
Finally, plug the motherboard into your Klipper host with the cable that came with it.
"},{"location":"setup/controllers/geetech-a30t/#uart-conversion","title":"UART Conversion","text":""},{"location":"setup/controllers/geetech-a30t/#attention-proceed-with-caution","title":"\u26a0\ufe0f Attention: Proceed with Caution! \u26a0\ufe0f","text":"This modification involves delicate hardware changes that require precision and attention to detail. Mistakes in wiring or soldering can permanently damage your GTM32_103_V1 board.
You proceed at your own risk.
"},{"location":"setup/controllers/geetech-a30t/#overview","title":"Overview","text":"This guide details the process of modifying the GTM32_103_V1 3D printer controller board to enable UART capabilities. The GTM32_103_V1 board features 7 TMC2208 drivers operating in standalone mode by default. This modification involves removing the SD card slot and repurposing its pinouts for UART communication.
"},{"location":"setup/controllers/geetech-a30t/#features-of-the-modification","title":"Features of the Modification","text":"After completing the hardware changes: 1. Connect the board to your 3D printer and power it on. 2. Use your firmware to verify UART communication with each TMC2208 driver. 3. Check for successful responses from the drivers using a terminal or debugging tool.
"},{"location":"setup/controllers/geetech-a30t/#photos","title":"Photos","text":"Add your photos here to demonstrate the modification process and results: - Close-up of the TMC driver
-Close-up of the TMC driver with resistor removed (solder the uart pint to the red signed pin)
Close-up of the SD card:
Rewired pins with labels.
When configuring this board with Happy Hare firmware, be sure to use UART-mmu.cfg and UART-mmu_hardware.cfg (renaming to mmu.cfg and mmu_hardware.cfg respectively).
Max filament units: 7
MCU Name: 3ms
Route the wires from the NEMA17's to the controller board. Follow this table to determine which port to plug the motors into:
Filament Unit # Motor Port 0 X 1 Y 2 Z 3 Z1 4 Z2 5 E0Now, grab your 12V PSU and two M-M duponts, one red and one black (M-M means that there is metal coming out of both ends of the cable). Plug the PSU into the wall, but don't plug the screw terminals into the PSU (the screw terminals have green)
Plug the black wire into the negative terminal of the screw terminals
Danger
These dupont cables are too thin to run much more than the stepper motors. If you run a heater or other power-intensive device off of the board board, the duponts and/or PSU can melt/catch fire. To reduce the risk of this, you can double up on the duponts or get thicker wires.
Using the markings on the board, plug the red wire into the positive terminal on the board
Verify all connections
Warning
If the wires are plugged into the wrong place, or swapped polarities, your board, Stepper motors, and/or PSU can be badly damaged.
Plug the PSU screw terminals into the PSU wire
If the board lights up, you wired it correctly!
Finally, plug the board into your Klipper host with the cable that came with it.
"},{"location":"setup/controllers/minirambo/","title":"Mini RAMBo","text":"Max filament units: 4
MCU Name: 3ms
Route the wires from the NEMA17's to the controller board. Follow this table to determine which port to plug the motors into:
Filament Unit # Motor Port 0 XM 1 YM 2 ZAM or ZBM 3 E0MNow, grab your 12V PSU and two M-M duponts, one red and one black (M-M means that there is metal coming out of both ends of the cable). Plug the PSU into the wall, but don't plug the screw terminals into the PSU (the screw terminals have green)
Plug the black wire into the negative terminal of the screw terminals
Danger
These dupont cables are too thin to run much more than the stepper motors. If you run a heater or other power-intensive device off of the RAMBo board, the duponts and/or PSU can melt/catch fire. To reduce the risk of this, you can double up on the duponts or get thicker wires.
Route the two wires inside closest to your chosen input
Verify all connections
Warning
If the wires are plugged into the wrong place, or swapped polarities, your RAMBo, Stepper motors, and/or PSU can be badly damaged.
Plug the PSU screw terminals into the PSU wire
If the RAMBo lights up, you wired it correctly!
Finally, plug the RAMBo into your Klipper host with the cable that came with it.
"},{"location":"setup/controllers/skrminie3v2/","title":"BTT SKR Mini E3 V2","text":"Max filament units: 4
MCU Name: 3ms
Route the wires from the NEMA17's to the controller board. Follow this table to determine which port to plug the motors into:
Filament Unit # Motor Port 0 XM 1 YM 2 ZAM or ZBM 3 E0MNow, grab your 12V PSU and two M-M duponts, one red and one black (M-M means that there is metal coming out of both ends of the cable). Plug the PSU into the wall, but don't plug the screw terminals into the PSU (the screw terminals have green)
Plug the black wire into the negative terminal of the screw terminals
Danger
These dupont cables are too thin to run much more than the stepper motors. If you run a heater or other power-intensive device off of the SKR board, the duponts and/or PSU can melt/catch fire. To reduce the risk of this, you can double up on the duponts or get thicker wires.
Following this image, choose either the DCIN or POWER input
Verify all connections
Warning
If the wires are plugged into the wrong place, or swapped polarities, your SKR, Stepper motors, and/or PSU can be badly damaged.
Plug the PSU screw terminals into the PSU wire
If the SKR lights up, you wired it correctly!
Finally, plug the SKR into your Klipper host with the blue cable that came with it.
"},{"location":"setup/controllers/skrpico/","title":"BTT SKR Pico","text":"Max filament units: 4
MCU Name: 3ms
Route the wires from the NEMA17's to the controller board. Follow this table to determine which port to plug the motors into:
Filament Unit # Motor Port 0 X 1 Y 2 Z1 or Z2 3 ENow, grab your 12V PSU and two M-M duponts, one red and one black (M-M means that there is metal coming out of both ends of the cable). Plug the PSU into the wall, but don't plug the screw terminals into the PSU (the screw terminals have green)
Plug the black wire into the negative terminal of the screw terminals
Danger
These dupont cables are too thin to run much more than the stepper motors. If you run a heater or other power-intensive device off of the SKR board, the duponts and/or PSU can melt/catch fire. To reduce the risk of this, you can double up on the duponts or get thicker wires.
Following this image, locate the POWER input
Verify all connections
Warning
If the wires are plugged into the wrong place, or swapped polarities, your SKR, Stepper motors, and/or PSU can be badly damaged.
Plug the PSU screw terminals into the PSU wire
If the SKR lights up, you wired it correctly!
Finally, plug the SKR into your Klipper host with the blue cable that came with it.
"},{"location":"setup/controllers/zm384main/","title":"Zonestar ZM384 (main MCU)","text":"Max filament units: 3
MCU Name: main
This configuration is a main MCU configuration, meaning that your printer should already be running off a ZM384 and you don't need to purchase one.
The 3MS is short for MMMS, which stands for Modular Multi Material System
Discord
Join the 3MS channel at the Happy Hare Discord server here.
Join the 3MS Discord:
"},{"location":"#inspiration","title":"Inspiration","text":"Model: Sheep by Cipis
Model: Monolith Cryptic Calendar by Sevro
Model: Voron Cube (bundled with OrcaSlicer), painted by me in OrcaSlicer
Printed at 50% scale
Model: T-rex by Cipis
Model: Striped lizard with pupils by EngMike
"},{"location":"#photos","title":"Photos","text":"Photos Full Printer3MSY Splitter"},{"location":"#videos","title":"Videos","text":"West3D Video SeriesThank you to Allen Rowand from West3D for making this ongoing series on the 3MS.
"},{"location":"#why-3ms","title":"Why 3MS?","text":"Why use the 3MS when there are many other multi-material systems?
Here are a few reasons:
With that said, there are a few reasons why you might not want to/be able to use the 3MS:
To use the 3MS, your setup has to meet the following requirements:
Think of the 3MS as an extension to your current extruder's length. It allows for switching filaments without compromising any of the benefits of your printer's extruder.
The 3MS's motors work together with your printer's extruder. This way, there won't be any additional resistance from pulling the filament through a disabled extruder. Also, unloads and loads to/from the printer's extruder are fully synchronized with the 3MS. This allows for even faster toolchanges!
"},{"location":"#get-started","title":"Get Started","text":"To get started with the 3MS, see the Master Instructions.
Get Started
"},{"location":"#what-about-the-3dchameleon","title":"What about the 3DChameleon?","text":"I recently created a klipper plugin for the 3DChameleon after purchasing a unit. I'm sure my Chameleon could have worked if I had tuned it further, but after several months with only partial success, I gave up. I am still open to pull requests for 3dchameleon-klipper and will do my best to respond to issues there, but I won't be able to test it myself anymore.
If you are having reliability issues with the 3DChameleon, see 3DChameleon Conversion.
"},{"location":"compare/","title":"Comparison of Multimaterial Systems","text":"Not sure if you want to use the 3MS? Check this comparison between several common multimaterial systems.
3MS Modular Multimaterial System for Klipper 3D Printers
Pros:
Simple Design
Reliability
Documentation
Modular Design
Active Community
Price (~$140)
Cons:
Compatibility (only Klipper)
Box Turtle MMU Automated Filament Changer
Pros:
Reliability
Active Community
Documentation
Cons:
Expandability (only four lanes)
Compatibility (only Klipper)
Price ($300)
ERCF v2 An expandable MMU for Klipper-based 3D-printers
Pros:
Reliability
Modular Design
Active Community
Documentation
Cons:
Compatibility (only Klipper)
Complexity
TradRack by Annex Engineering
Pros:
Reliability
Modular Design
Active Community
Documentation
Cons:
Compatibility (only Klipper)
Complexity
3DChameleon MK4 Automatic Color Changer
Pros:
Compatibility
No custom firmware
Price ($200)
Cons:
Reliability
Documentation
SMuFF Smart Multi Filament Feeder
Pros:
Reliability
Modular Design
Documentation
Cons:
Complexity
Prusa MMU3 Multi Material Upgrade
Pros:
Reliability
Support
Documentation
Cons:
Compatibility
Price ($300)
Due to the modularity of the 3MS, there are many ways to set it up. This guide attempts to encompass all supported ways of setting up the 3MS.
"},{"location":"instructions/#basic-steps","title":"Basic Steps","text":"The basic steps this guide will follow are:
Before starting the instructions, a basic understanding of how the 3MS works is recommended. There are two types of components in the 3MS:
Controller
This controls the 3MS stepper motors. This is usually an extra 3D printer mainboard purchased specifically for the 3MS. If your existing 3D printer mainboard has spare stepper ports, you can use them for the 3MS.
The available configurations are specific to either an external mainboard setup, or utilizing spare stepper ports on your existing mainboard. If you are utilizing spare stepper ports, the name of the config will include \"(main MCU)\"
\"controller\" can be used interchangeably with \"MCU\" and \"control board\"
Filament Units
These move the filament. These are standard MK8 extruders (used on Ender 3's). You can use different extruders for the filament units, as long as you can mount them securely and they can attach to a PTFE tube. MK8 extruders are used as the default due to their low cost.
\"filament unit\" and \"gate\" can be used interchangeably
The number of filaments you will be able to print with is equal to the number of filament units you have. For example, two filament units will let you print with two colors. It is important to note that one filament unit will NOT let you print in multimaterial.
"},{"location":"instructions/#1-getting-a-bom","title":"1. Getting a BOM","text":"Go to BOM to view the bill of materials for the number of filament units you want. Example BOM for two filament units and a SKR Mini E3 V2:
Name Price Quantity Link Notes SKR Mini E3 V2 $34.99 1 Amazon Duponts $9.99 1 Amazon These wires are only sufficient to run steppers, not heaters 12V PSU $7.39 1 Amazon This PSU is only sufficient to run steppers, not heaters NEMA17 Stepper Motor $9.99 2 Amazon You can use a pancake stepper if you want, but it will have less torque MK8 Metal Extruder $9.99 2 Amazon Capricorn PTFE Tubing $11.49 1 Amazon You likely won't need this for every unit, as this is usually too long for only one unit"},{"location":"instructions/#2-assembling-your-3ms","title":"2. Assembling your 3MS","text":"Follow Assembly to assemble your 3MS.
"},{"location":"instructions/#3-configuring-your-3ms","title":"3. Configuring your 3MS","text":"Set up Happy Hare firmware following this guide.
"},{"location":"instructions/#4-calibrating-your-3ms","title":"4. Calibrating your 3MS","text":"After installing and configuring Happy Hare, the 3MS requires some calibrations. Follow Calibration to calibrate your 3MS.
"},{"location":"contributing/","title":"Contributing","text":"If you want to contribute to the 3MS project, follow the instructions below.
"},{"location":"contributing/#development-setup","title":"Development Setup","text":"Follow Development Setup to setup your system for development with the 3MS.
"},{"location":"contributing/#pull-request","title":"Pull Request","text":"Finally, submit a pull request. A developer will get back to you soon with feedback, before merging your pull request into the main project.
Thank you for your contribution to the 3MS project!
"},{"location":"contributing/devsetup/","title":"Development Setup","text":"Follow this guide to setup your system for development with the 3MS.
"},{"location":"contributing/devsetup/#documentation-changes","title":"Documentation Changes","text":"docs branch)pipenv install\npipenv shell\nmkdocs serve\nFollow this guide to convert a 3DChameleon to a 3MS.
"},{"location":"guides/3dchameleon/#bom","title":"BOM","text":"Name Price Quantity Link Notes SKR Mini E3 V2 $34.99 1 Amazon Duponts $9.99 1 Amazon These wires are only sufficient to run steppers, not heaters 12V PSU $7.39 1 Amazon This PSU is only sufficient to run steppers, not heaters MK8 Metal Extruder $9.99 2 Amazon Alternatively, you can use this Dual-drive MK8 based extruderThe final cost of this upgrade is around $70.
"},{"location":"guides/3dchameleon/#instructions","title":"Instructions","text":"Next, follow the Master Instructions except for the BOM section.
"},{"location":"hidden/hidden-assembly/","title":"Hidden assembly","text":""},{"location":"hidden/hidden-assembly/#3ms-kit-assembly","title":"3MS Kit Assembly","text":"This page is under construction
This page is the assembly instructions for future 3MS kits. Instructions on this page will change, so don't follow it until 3MS Kits are officially released. Anything on this page is subject to change.
Tip
Even though each step only looks like it has one image, if you click on the image you can view several more images for each step.
"},{"location":"hidden/hidden-assembly/#electronics-assembly","title":"Electronics Assembly","text":""},{"location":"hidden/hidden-assembly/#step-1-preparing-the-power-cables","title":"Step 1 Preparing the Power Cables","text":"Strip both ends of the red and black power cables and twist the ends.
Use wire cutters that can strip 14AWG wire.
Strip 5mm of insulation off of both ends of both wires.
Twist the ends of the stripped wires tightly.
Insert both power cables into the power supply.
Loosen the terminals with a phillips-head screwdriver.
Insert the red power cable into the positive PSU terminal.
Insert the black power cable into the negative PSU terminal.
Tighten both terminals securely with a phillips-head screwdriver.
Insert both power cables into the control board.
Locate the HVIN power input on the control board and loosen both terminals with a flat-head screwdriver.
Insert the red power cable into the positive HVIN terminal.
Insert the black power cable into the negative HVIN terminal.
Tighten both terminals securely with a flat-head screwdriver.
Install the VUSB and HVIN jumpers.
Install the VUSB jumper.
For each stepper driver, select the HVIN input by installing a jumper on each driver.
Install all four EZ2209 stepper drivers.
Install an EZ2209 into each stepper driver slot.
Download
Designed by chadk
Printables Link
Choose either of the mounting/enclosure options on the left for your 3MS and print them out.
Designed by ImChrono
Printables Link
Print this Y-splitter according to the instructions in its Printables page.
Follow this guide to assemble your 3MS.
"},{"location":"setup/assembly/#printed-parts","title":"Printed Parts","text":""},{"location":"setup/assembly/#mounting","title":"Mounting","text":"Univeral M3 Mount for Extruder Note that this requires 2-4 M3 bolts and a place to screw the bolts into (like an aluminum extrusion with T-nuts). Designed by 3DCoded.
3MS Box This is designed for four filament units and a BTT MMB. Designed by chadakken.
4-way Y-splitter designed by ImChrono.
4-way Y-splitter with ECAS04 and M3 Bolt designed by Jager-f.
4-way Y splitter with ECAS04 designed by 3DCoded.
Note for Certain Printers
If your printer has Klipper running internally (not on an external computer like a Raspberry Pi), the controller (if not a main MCU config) is plugged into a USB port on the printer itself.
Follow one of the following guides based on your controller:
Recommended: BTT MMB
Other Controllers:
First, choose the control board you want to use in your 3MS. Choose a controller from the available ones here.
"},{"location":"setup/bom/#number-of-filament-units","title":"Number of filament units","text":"First, choose the number of filament units you want. Each filament unit lets you print with an additional filament. Two filament units are the minimum. You can add or remove filament units after building, but the BOM and configuration will vary based on how many filament units you want.
"},{"location":"setup/bom/#controller-boms","title":"Controller BOMs","text":"Choose the BOM for your chosen controller from the list below:
Recommended: BTT MMB
Other Controllers:
For each filament unit, purchase this BOM:
Name Quantity Price Link Notes NEMA17 Stepper Motor 1 $9.99 Amazon You can use a pancake stepper if you want, but it will have less torque MK8 Metal Extruder 1 $9.99 Amazon Alternatively, you can use this Dual-drive MK8 based extruder PTFE Tubing 1 $8.99 Amazon You likely won't need this for every unit, as this is usually too long for only one unit"},{"location":"setup/calibration/","title":"Calibration","text":"Follow this guide to calibrate your 3MS.
Original Documentation
This guide is a simplified version of the official Happy Hare documentation. I highly recommend you read it as it contains useful information and goes more in detail if you are having trouble with the calibrations.
"},{"location":"setup/calibration/#verify-filament-sensors","title":"Verify Filament Sensors","text":"Before calibrating, it is important to ensure that your filament sensors are working properly.
Run in your Klipper console:
QUERY_ENDSTOPS\nand verify the output. For each endstop, open means no filament detected, and TRIGGERED means filament present. Re-run the command several times, inserting/removing filament to each of the sensors, to verify that each filament sensor properly detects filament.
First, calibrate your gear steppers (filament units). The goal of this calibration is to ensure the filament actually moves as far as expected.
First, detach the PTFE tubing from each of the filament units.
For each filament unit (gate), repeat the following steps:
Run the following commands in your Klipper console:
MMU_SELECT GATE=n\nMMU_TEST_MOVE MOVE=100\nwhere n is the gate number you are calibrating (starting at zero).
The filament should move forwards. If it moves backwards, invert your gear stepper. Measure the distance the filament moved out of the extruder. Using side cutters the same as before can be helpful for this. Run the following command in your Klipper console:
MMU_CALIBRATE_GEAR MEASURED=n\nwhere n is the measured distance.
Repeat step c. The filament should move exactly 100mm.
If you are using an encoder, like a BTT SFS (Smart Filament Sensor), you need to calibrate your encoder.
Run in your Klipper console:
MMU_CALIBRATE_ENCODER\nIf you notice any of your gear steppers moving filament in the opposite direction as expected, you need to invert the gear stepper. There are two options to do this:
To invert a gear stepper in software, open mmu_hardware.cfg and invert the dir_pin for the respective stepper.
Example, if T1 is moving backwards:
[stepper_mmu_gear_1]\n...\ndir_pin: mmu: PC5\n[stepper_mmu_gear_1]\n...\ndir_pin: !mmu: PC5 # <-- Note the ! in front of mmu\nTip
If the pin already has a ! in front of it, remove it to invert it.
Restart Klipper.
"},{"location":"setup/controllers/","title":"Controllers","text":"Follow this guide to determine which controller to use in your 3MS.
"},{"location":"setup/controllers/#options","title":"Options","text":"The 3MS works on multiple different controllers.
Info
If your printer's mainboard has spare stepper ports, you can use them to control 3MS steppers. You can open an issue on Github (there's a template) to get a configuration made for your specific setup. Any controllers listed with \"(main MCU)\" use those spare stepper plugs.
Choose one of the following supported controllers (a checked box indicates it is fully tested, and an empty box indicates testers wanted):
BTT MMB (4 colors)
Recommended
Einsy RAMBo (main MCU) with SKR Mini E3 V2.0 (3ms MCU)
Expert modification
Geetech A30T
Max filament units: 4
MCU Name: 3ms
Route the wires from the NEMA17's to the controller board. Follow this table to determine which port to plug the motors into:
Filament Unit # Motor Port 0 M1 1 M2 2 M3 3 M4Now, grab your 12V PSU and two M-M duponts, one red and one black (M-M means that there is metal coming out of both ends of the cable). Plug the PSU into the wall, but don't plug the screw terminals into the PSU (the screw terminals have green)
Plug the black wire into the negative terminal of the screw terminals
Danger
These dupont cables are too thin to run much more than the stepper motors. If you run a heater or other power-intensive device off of the MMB board, the duponts and/or PSU can melt/catch fire. To reduce the risk of this, you can double up on the duponts or get thicker wires.
Following this image, locate the HVIN and GND inputs (top left)
Route the two wires inside closest to the HVIN and GND inputs
Plug in the VUSB jumper
Verify all connections
Warning
If the wires are plugged into the wrong place, or swapped polarities, your MMB, Stepper motors, and/or PSU can be badly damaged.
Plug the PSU screw terminals into the PSU wire
Plug the MMB into your Klipper host with the cable that came with it.
If the MMB lights up, you wired it correctly!
"},{"location":"setup/controllers/bttoctopusmain/","title":"BTT Octopus (main MCU)","text":"Warning
This configuration may not work with the BTT Octopus Pro.
Max filament units: 4
MCU Name: main
This configuration is a main MCU configuration, meaning that your printer should already be running off a BTT Octopus and you don't need to purchase one.
Per filament unit:
1x TMC2209 ($7 each)
"},{"location":"setup/controllers/bttoctopusmain/#wiring","title":"Wiring","text":"Route the wires from the NEMA17's to the controller board. Follow this table to determine which port to plug the motors into:
Filament Unit # Motor Port 0 MOTOR7 1 MOTOR6 2 MOTOR5 3 MOTOR4"},{"location":"setup/controllers/einsyrambo-skrminie3v2/","title":"Einsy RAMBo (main MCU) with SKR Mini E3 V2","text":"Danger
This guide is an expert guide only
Info
This modification is designed for the Prusa MK3/S/S+, and depends on this Klipper configuration.
"},{"location":"setup/controllers/einsyrambo-skrminie3v2/#why","title":"Why?","text":"When printing fast, the TMC2130's on the Einsy RAMBo can get quite loud. The TMC2209's on the SKR Mini are much quieter and support denser microstepping.
"},{"location":"setup/controllers/einsyrambo-skrminie3v2/#bom","title":"BOM","text":"Name Price Quantity Link Notes PSU -> Einsy Cable $7.99 1 PartsBuilt3D Stepperonline NEMA17 $9.99 each Amazon 2 Replaces current XY motors"},{"location":"setup/controllers/einsyrambo-skrminie3v2/#wiring","title":"Wiring","text":"First, unplug the 3MS steppers from the SKR Mini, and the XY steppers from the Einsy RAMBo. The motors will need to be switched due to different connector types between boards.
This table outlines the major wiring of this modification.
Einsy RAMBo SKR Mini E3 V2 Motor PSU+ POWER+ PSU- POWER- XM 3ms0 YM 3ms1 XM X YM Y"},{"location":"setup/controllers/einsyrambo-skrminie3v2/#configuration","title":"Configuration","text":"In your printer.cfg, comment out these lines:
#[include klipper-prusa-mk3s/mk3s/steppers.cfg]\n#[include klipper-prusa-mk3s/mk3s/tmc2130.cfg]\nNext, copy the contents of 3ms/controllers/einsy_rambo_with_skr_mini/xy-motors.cfg and ze-motors.cfg to klipper-prusa-mk3s/skr/xy.cfg, and klipper-prusa-mk3s/mk3s/ze.cfg, respectively.
Add the following new lines:
printer.cfg[include klipper-prusa-mk3s/skr/xy.cfg]\n[include klipper-prusa-mk3s/mk3s/ze.cfg]\nRestart Klipper.
"},{"location":"setup/controllers/geetech-a30t/","title":"Geetech A30T","text":"Contributed by @ImChrono
Max filament units: 7
MCU Name: 3ms
To flash Klipper firmware to the A30T, run the following command and see the following screenshot:
cd ~/klipper\nmake menuconfig\nNext, connect the BOOT0 jumper on the A30T and run:
stm32flash -i ',,,,,' -v -w out/klipper.bin -g 0 /dev/serial/by-id/<your-mcu-id-here>\nRoute the wires from the NEMA17's to the controller board. Follow this table to determine which port to plug the motors into:
Filament Unit # Motor Port 0 X 1 Y 2 Z0 3 Z1 4 E1 5 E2 6 E3Now, grab your 12V PSU and two M-M duponts, one red and one black (M-M means that there is metal coming out of both ends of the cable). Plug the PSU into the wall, but don't plug the screw terminals into the PSU (the screw terminals have green)
Plug two black wires into the negative terminal of the screw terminals
Danger
These dupont cables are too thin to run much more than the stepper motors. If you run a heater or other power-intensive device off of the motherboard, the duponts and/or PSU can melt/catch fire. To reduce the risk of this, you can double up on the duponts or get thicker wires.
Route the four wires inside closest to your chosen input
Verify all connections
Warning
If the wires are plugged into the wrong place, or swapped polarities, your motherboard, Stepper motors, and/or PSU can be badly damaged.
Plug the PSU screw terminals into the PSU wire
If the motherboard lights up, you wired it correctly!
Finally, plug the motherboard into your Klipper host with the cable that came with it.
"},{"location":"setup/controllers/geetech-a30t/#uart-conversion","title":"UART Conversion","text":""},{"location":"setup/controllers/geetech-a30t/#attention-proceed-with-caution","title":"\u26a0\ufe0f Attention: Proceed with Caution! \u26a0\ufe0f","text":"This modification involves delicate hardware changes that require precision and attention to detail. Mistakes in wiring or soldering can permanently damage your GTM32_103_V1 board.
You proceed at your own risk.
"},{"location":"setup/controllers/geetech-a30t/#overview","title":"Overview","text":"This guide details the process of modifying the GTM32_103_V1 3D printer controller board to enable UART capabilities. The GTM32_103_V1 board features 7 TMC2208 drivers operating in standalone mode by default. This modification involves removing the SD card slot and repurposing its pinouts for UART communication.
"},{"location":"setup/controllers/geetech-a30t/#features-of-the-modification","title":"Features of the Modification","text":"After completing the hardware changes: 1. Connect the board to your 3D printer and power it on. 2. Use your firmware to verify UART communication with each TMC2208 driver. 3. Check for successful responses from the drivers using a terminal or debugging tool.
"},{"location":"setup/controllers/geetech-a30t/#photos","title":"Photos","text":"Add your photos here to demonstrate the modification process and results: - Close-up of the TMC driver
-Close-up of the TMC driver with resistor removed (solder the uart pint to the red signed pin)
Close-up of the SD card:
Rewired pins with labels.
When configuring this board with Happy Hare firmware, be sure to use UART-mmu.cfg and UART-mmu_hardware.cfg (renaming to mmu.cfg and mmu_hardware.cfg respectively).
Max filament units: 7
MCU Name: 3ms
Route the wires from the NEMA17's to the controller board. Follow this table to determine which port to plug the motors into:
Filament Unit # Motor Port 0 X 1 Y 2 Z 3 Z1 4 Z2 5 E0Now, grab your 12V PSU and two M-M duponts, one red and one black (M-M means that there is metal coming out of both ends of the cable). Plug the PSU into the wall, but don't plug the screw terminals into the PSU (the screw terminals have green)
Plug the black wire into the negative terminal of the screw terminals
Danger
These dupont cables are too thin to run much more than the stepper motors. If you run a heater or other power-intensive device off of the board board, the duponts and/or PSU can melt/catch fire. To reduce the risk of this, you can double up on the duponts or get thicker wires.
Using the markings on the board, plug the red wire into the positive terminal on the board
Verify all connections
Warning
If the wires are plugged into the wrong place, or swapped polarities, your board, Stepper motors, and/or PSU can be badly damaged.
Plug the PSU screw terminals into the PSU wire
If the board lights up, you wired it correctly!
Finally, plug the board into your Klipper host with the cable that came with it.
"},{"location":"setup/controllers/minirambo/","title":"Mini RAMBo","text":"Max filament units: 4
MCU Name: 3ms
Route the wires from the NEMA17's to the controller board. Follow this table to determine which port to plug the motors into:
Filament Unit # Motor Port 0 XM 1 YM 2 ZAM or ZBM 3 E0MNow, grab your 12V PSU and two M-M duponts, one red and one black (M-M means that there is metal coming out of both ends of the cable). Plug the PSU into the wall, but don't plug the screw terminals into the PSU (the screw terminals have green)
Plug the black wire into the negative terminal of the screw terminals
Danger
These dupont cables are too thin to run much more than the stepper motors. If you run a heater or other power-intensive device off of the RAMBo board, the duponts and/or PSU can melt/catch fire. To reduce the risk of this, you can double up on the duponts or get thicker wires.
Route the two wires inside closest to your chosen input
Verify all connections
Warning
If the wires are plugged into the wrong place, or swapped polarities, your RAMBo, Stepper motors, and/or PSU can be badly damaged.
Plug the PSU screw terminals into the PSU wire
If the RAMBo lights up, you wired it correctly!
Finally, plug the RAMBo into your Klipper host with the cable that came with it.
"},{"location":"setup/controllers/skrminie3v2/","title":"BTT SKR Mini E3 V2","text":"Max filament units: 4
MCU Name: 3ms
Route the wires from the NEMA17's to the controller board. Follow this table to determine which port to plug the motors into:
Filament Unit # Motor Port 0 XM 1 YM 2 ZAM or ZBM 3 E0MNow, grab your 12V PSU and two M-M duponts, one red and one black (M-M means that there is metal coming out of both ends of the cable). Plug the PSU into the wall, but don't plug the screw terminals into the PSU (the screw terminals have green)
Plug the black wire into the negative terminal of the screw terminals
Danger
These dupont cables are too thin to run much more than the stepper motors. If you run a heater or other power-intensive device off of the SKR board, the duponts and/or PSU can melt/catch fire. To reduce the risk of this, you can double up on the duponts or get thicker wires.
Following this image, choose either the DCIN or POWER input
Verify all connections
Warning
If the wires are plugged into the wrong place, or swapped polarities, your SKR, Stepper motors, and/or PSU can be badly damaged.
Plug the PSU screw terminals into the PSU wire
If the SKR lights up, you wired it correctly!
Finally, plug the SKR into your Klipper host with the blue cable that came with it.
"},{"location":"setup/controllers/skrpico/","title":"BTT SKR Pico","text":"Max filament units: 4
MCU Name: 3ms
Route the wires from the NEMA17's to the controller board. Follow this table to determine which port to plug the motors into:
Filament Unit # Motor Port 0 X 1 Y 2 Z1 or Z2 3 ENow, grab your 12V PSU and two M-M duponts, one red and one black (M-M means that there is metal coming out of both ends of the cable). Plug the PSU into the wall, but don't plug the screw terminals into the PSU (the screw terminals have green)
Plug the black wire into the negative terminal of the screw terminals
Danger
These dupont cables are too thin to run much more than the stepper motors. If you run a heater or other power-intensive device off of the SKR board, the duponts and/or PSU can melt/catch fire. To reduce the risk of this, you can double up on the duponts or get thicker wires.
Following this image, locate the POWER input
Verify all connections
Warning
If the wires are plugged into the wrong place, or swapped polarities, your SKR, Stepper motors, and/or PSU can be badly damaged.
Plug the PSU screw terminals into the PSU wire
If the SKR lights up, you wired it correctly!
Finally, plug the SKR into your Klipper host with the blue cable that came with it.
"},{"location":"setup/controllers/zm384main/","title":"Zonestar ZM384 (main MCU)","text":"Max filament units: 3
MCU Name: main
This configuration is a main MCU configuration, meaning that your printer should already be running off a ZM384 and you don't need to purchase one.